I’m not sure if P&G rebates have changed their T&C to where the net total price must reach the required threshold amount, in this case $50 AFTER coupons are applied or else they will not qualify for the rebate. I remember years ago, their rebates were BEFORE coupons and the coupons then were a lot higher than they are now. <sigh>

We may not be like the rest but we pay for our vehicles in cash; the last one we bought brand new from the dealership was in Q4 of 2015. Our style is tell the salesman we’re paying in cash, this is all I’m willing to pay for X vehicle in your lot. We have no trade in and this is the car we want; the color of the car is the only factor negotiable. If you’re not going to lower the MSRP to meet our price, let’s not waste each other’s time. We usually cut the back n forth negotiations to 45 minutes and then I stand up ready to go when the boss comes up and say we have a deal.

We’ve done this twice now and paid no more than what we were willing to part with. For those asking why we buy brand new, the price difference of the certified used were just a few hundreds so I’d rather buy brand new but according to my price which I’ve researched prior to making an offer. We’re well aware that vehicles depreciate as soon as they roll out of the parking lot but we still stick to brand new ones.

@skaterringo I’m not sure if it’s okay to recommend a site that provides a lot of discussions on banks including the ones that give sign up bonuses. Feel free to send me a PM so I don’t violate any rules. If the mods read this and it’s allowed, I will post it here for all to see. I can say I’ve used that site and have received thousands of $ in bank sign up bonuses juggling the same funds for DH and me for the past year.

@louis-redfoot even if it’s not done for a living, it’s not a good idea to do it because it can possibly cause a gullible person to get in trouble and get banned from a store. Like I said to those who plan to do it at Walgreens…DON’T! unless you want a problem.

@dennisinvenice I’m with you and since the codes in boxes sold at most stores are still the same from years ago, I don’t see how they can tell if they’re codes AFTER the program change. But main question for us ~ what are these flaps worth now?

I don’t know now what to do with all those codes in flaps of 12 pk cans I have collected if they’re still any good

@louis-redfoot I think this is terrible advice to buy something with intent to return even for store credit.

For those who will try this tactic at stores like Walgreens, know that when a return is made, they’ll give you a merchandise credit card (store credit), which has a lot of restrictions to use. BEWARE of those who sell Walgreens GCs online because this is the type they’re selling and you’re going to be frustrated later when you try to use it and it has so many restrictions to use it. Compared to the regular rack Walgreens GCs which does not have a lot of restrictions on what to buy, the merchandise credit is a real PITA that’s why people get rid of it and sell them online to gullible buyers.

@my4mainecoons yes, place like those and I don’t want to mention them to give them free advertisement because from what I’ve read a lot of them have not paid for the GCs they accepted from sellers. There was one popular among MSers (will tell you if you PM me) that was good at the start and then started NOT paying a lot of the sellers.

If you sell on ebay, just make sure to take pics F&B; others scratch of the back portion if there’s a scratch off portion and take a screenshot of the current balance on card at the time it was mailed to buyer after they check it online. That way, buyer can’t say it’s zero balance when they received it. Therefore, it’s best to cover your bases.